Belay/Rappelling Gear

Here are some hints/tips about different belay and rappelling gear that you should consider when you go into the store to make your purchases and get out on the rock.

Belaying:

Because falls produce great force, your belay anchors must be secured with bombproof multidirectional anchors.
Double-check your partner’s belay setup before you leave the ground.
Double-check your harness tie-in as well as your partner’s.
Always keep the brake hand on the rope. Wear belay gloves to prevent rope burns.
Understand/follow manufacturer’s instructions for each belay device.
Always use a locking carabiner with your belay device.
You must check to see that your locking carabiner is properly locked with each use.

Rappelling:

Van Wilder trailer

Use bombproof anchors; never trust 1 bolt or piton. Back up anchors wherever possible.
If doubt exists about the strength of an existing rappel webbing, use a fresh runner. Remove and carry out any tattered ropes.
If the ends of your rope aren’t touching the ground, knot the ends. Climbers have died rappelling off the ends of their ropes.
Check your setup before your rappel.
Check your partner’s rappel setup. The most experienced climber should check the other climber’s setups and then go down last.
Wear a glove on your braking hand to prevent rope burns.
Bounding rappels shock-load anchors and ropes: Always rappel slowly and smoothly.
Always use a locking carabiner with your rappel device.
You must check to see that your locking carabiner is properly locked with each use.
When using a figure-8 for rappels, be sure it loads the carabiner along its major axis. An incorrectly loaded figure-8 can slide down onto the carabiner’s gate and lever it oven.