The Gear House

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Here are some hints/tips about different belay and rappelling gear that you should consider when you go into the store to make your purchases and get out on the rock.

Belaying:

• Because falls produce great force, your belay anchors must be secured with bombproof multidirectional anchors.
• Double-check your partner’s belay setup before you leave the ground.
• Double-check your harness tie-in as well as your partner’s.
• Always keep the brake hand on the rope. Wear belay gloves to prevent rope burns.
• Understand/follow manufacturer’s instructions for each belay device.
• Always use a locking carabiner with your belay device.
• You must check to see that your locking carabiner is properly locked with each use.

Rappelling:

• Use bombproof anchors; never trust 1 bolt or piton. Back up anchors wherever possible.
• If doubt exists about the strength of an existing rappel webbing, use a fresh runner. Remove and carry out any tattered ropes.
• If the ends of your rope aren’t touching the ground, knot the ends. Climbers have died rappelling off the ends of their ropes.
• Check your setup before your rappel.
• Check your partner’s rappel setup. The most experienced climber should check the other climber’s setups and then go down last.
• Wear a glove on your braking hand to prevent rope burns.
• Bounding rappels shock-load anchors and ropes: Always rappel slowly and smoothly.
• Always use a locking carabiner with your rappel device.
• You must check to see that your locking carabiner is properly locked with each use.
• When using a figure-8 for rappels, be sure it loads the carabiner along its major axis. An incorrectly loaded figure-8 can slide down onto the carabiner’s gate and lever it oven.